Sauce Cook

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How to fix a broken hollandaise sauce

June 8, 2014 By admin

Most separated sauces can be fixed. Even a broken hollandaise can be fixed if the fat is separated from the other liquid, instead of having the smooth consistence of a good emulation.

However, let’s take exceptions first: Sauces with eggs, like all hollandaise derivate are easily ruined by excessive heating. The tips to fix broken sauce do exclude sauces where hard-boiled eggs are included, but no emulations where eggs are whipped or stirred in, such as béarnaise sauce and hollandaise. If those are heated up too much, the protein in the egg is cooked solid, and the sauce can’t be saved.

Too much heat applied is also going to curdle yolks, ruining the sauce.

If the sauce has separated, for instance if you have added too much fat at once, it is easily saved:

Whisk together one egg yolk and a tablespoon of water. Add it to the broken sauce, just a little at a time while you stir vigorously all the time. This should fix most separated hollandaise based sauces.

A sauce that separate because of too much lemon, vinegar or wine, or because it has been boiling for a long time, can usually be smoothed again. Create a new thickening and add it to the broken sauce. Again, it is important to stir constantly and only add a little at a time so you don’t make lumps during the rescue attempt.

One more tip, if you promise not to tell anyone where you got it: If you are serving only yourself or your forgiving family, and don’t have time to make a new sauce, you may revert to the brute force approach. Keep the mixer deep in the sauce, trying not to blend air. You may be able to eat the result…

Stock

May 26, 2014 By admin

Stock is a flavoured water preparation. It forms the basis of many sauces and is traditionally made by simmering various ingredients in water.

In my opinion all stock should include mirepoix. In fact, many regard the mirepoix as one of the most important “secrets” of fine cuisine, and even more important for the sauce cook! Mirepoix is fine cut onions, carrots, celery, and sometimes other vegetables. Cutoffs that may not otherwise be eaten, such as carrot skins, are just fine.

What “other vegetables” that goes into the stock – and if any at all – is your decision. Actually this is some of the grate chef and sauce cook’s signatures.

The herbs and spices used depend on local traditions and some let the season play a part. The “bouquet garni” is a bouquet of herbs usually consisting of parsley, bay leaves and a sprig of thyme. This is often placed in a perforated container or sachet to makes it easy to remove after the simmering.

Stock may also contain animal ingredients like bones of beef, veal, fish and chicken. The connective tissue that is left on the bones contains collagen. When cooked, the collagen plays part as thickening agent, as gelatin. Leftover cooked meat and cutoffs from fresh meat, bird and fish can be used. Pork is popular in some eastern cuisine, like the Chinese, but not allowed in other cultures.

In daily cooking you may resort to readymade stock in form of stock cubes. It can’t replace your real stock craftsmanship, but it comes handy and self-made sauces based on bouillon cubes are absolutely preferable to readymade sauces. Stock cubes consist of dried compressed stock ingredients. In different parts of the world, bouillon cubes referred to as cooking base Oxo cubes and more.

It is not unusual to talk of broth and stock as the same, but it’s not. The biggest difference is that stock is just the intense flavored strained liquid, free of solid substances from the ingredients. Broth is more like a soup where the solids like fragments of meat, fish and vegetables remain. In ethnical cuisine other ingredients like rice, corn or barley are added.

Here are some stock and broth types, with their “professional” names. For the Sauce Cook, French terms are often used.

Common name French cousin Ingredients Simmer for…
Brown stock Fond brun or Estouffade Basic stock in French cuisine, but often quite complex, containing marrow bones, beef, poultry carcasses, carrots, turnips, leeks, celery, parsnips and onion 4 or more hours
Chicken stock Chicken 3-4 hours
Fish stock, in the East Mainly for use in soups, a broth is made from special tuna flakes
Fish stock, in the West Made with fish bones and fish heads and finely chopped mirepoix Less than 20 minutes. Caution: If left simmering for longer time, the taste is spoiled.
Ham stock Pork ham, used in creole, Cajun and Chinese cooking.
Jus Typically made by deglazing the roasting pan, and lightly reduced.
Lamb stock Jus from chicken stock and roasted lamb necks and bones 5 hours or more
Meat bone stock Glace viande From bones. Usually from veal. 4+ hours or more
Prawn stock Boiled prawn shells
Veal stock 8 hours or more
Vegetable stock Vegetable stock is made of vegetables only
White stock Fond blanc Raw bones – usually from chicken – and white mirepoix 3 hours
Remouillage Remouillage is a second stock made from the same set of bones. 4 hours or more

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